Working in China, Month 1: September 2014

Hello!  This is Stephen Rosebaugh-Nordan with a posthumous travel guide to China!  This is going to be me chronicling significant events during my year in China.  I'm writing them as they happen, so this is fresh in my mind, but it will probably only be posted in the following year, as I don't want to ruffle any feathers during my stay.  Going to divide these posts by month and do one a week, with me only really chronicling events that are significant, for one reason or another.  Also, don't expect too in depth details, like specific names or companies.  I won't break my promise to keep confidential that which must be confidential, be it work or politics...so this is what you get.  Names were changed or omitted to protect the innocent.

For those with an interest in this, please contact me and ask to be put on the mailing list for this blog.  I will be posting it to social media and updating it weekly, however if you want an email or automatic update, let me know, with an up to date email preferably, and I will add you to the mailing list.

Anyway, that out of the way, let's begin!

September 2014

September 9-10

The flights in trying to get to China were long and arduous, lasting well over 18 hours with my transfers included.  I met one of my roommates to be in Atlanta and I thought things would go well.  I didn't sleep well on my second flight to China, which was 11 hours, but spirits were high and I sat next to a nice Chinese lady, who shared some green tea cake with me, probably because I helped her mop up a water spill.  I mostly played games and watched movies until I arrived.  I stuck with my roommate to be, unknowing what would happen next, and we, along with six other teachers, were driven from the airport to our hotel.  We all crashed, though not before a run to a convenience store for water, since Chinese tap water is not good to drink, and me frantically warning people about the difference in voltage in China.  Cause I care.

September 11

A day that started out pretty good, but which ended in...disappointment.  We basically started off going to get our banking details taken care of.  For the first time in ages, I felt the telltale flicker of excitement in my heart as I, in a fit of boredom due to the long wait for the other 30 teachers to get their bank cards, explored the mall under the bank.  It was like a consumerist paradise, with Asian restaurants, stores, and all manner of bakeries, toys, and cool things to see.  Then things turned sour, as we went to the main office and, despite our kind hosts, I got a bout of exhaustion coupled with sickness.  Not sure if it was the spiced BBQ meat I got or just jet lag, but I started feeling like death.  That feeling intensified when we had a free for all apartment hunting/planning section.

Turns out my roommates to be had better options than me.  Never mind that we had plans months in advance or they gave me their word they wouldn't leave me to twist in the wind.  In the end, even good people abandon others for the sake of a convenient life.  And I was left with nothing but resentment and anger, false promises and pleadings of "We don't want to leave you hanging, but..."  That truth sat in the pit of my stomach all day.  It made me ill as we walked a good 2-3 mile trek around Tiennamen Square and to an admittedly interesting temple.  By now, being stuck around the chattering of a good 30 extroverted teachers began to wear on me, and coupled with the gut punch of being abandoned, I excused myself from dinner and collapsed into bed early.

I made a decision then that I wasn't going to beg for the help of these other teachers.  These strangers who we met only a day before but were pretending to be friends with.  I would survive on my own.  If I made friends, fine, but I would not rely on these people who cast me out.  And so, I set plans in motion to find an apartment of my own, within my budget.

September 12

Betrayal sits heavy in my stomach, as it is one thing I have a hard time forgiving.  Lies, flakiness, even broken promises can be forgiven if the reasons are just, or at least understandable, but betrayal is a willful act of turning on someone for your own gain.  That is where my compassion ends.  I confirmed that I was in fact being left to twist in the wind by my former roommates to be, who were rather unrepentant...and proceeded to suffer.

One migraine, two one hour car trips, and a medical examination we didn't even get to go to due to long lines, and I felt like death.  The good news?  I'd contacted one of the agents associated with my work and let them know my situation.  Progress was being made.  I suffered for almost 7 hours with the constant chattering of 30 strangers buzzing through my migraine ridden head and making me hate life.  One was kind and gave me some pain pills, but I was rather done with westerners for a bit.

Just then, I was picked up by my school's contact and I felt that flicker of excitement begin to return.  While I admit to being nervous about teaching and the HUGE laundry list of things we need to do to get an apartment and be registered to live in China was...a bit much, I had one of the best places in the world to work.  A CHINESE MALL!  It was like an altar to the god of consumerism and I was one of the chief worshippers.  I was so gleeful, seeing everything laid out.  Anime and toys to clothes, to food, to whatever you could want...it was all here.  And I started to feel at home.  Sometimes, fate doesn't screw you too hard.

And I mean that.  After meeting my colleagues at my school and getting some advice from my contact about apartment hunting, my agent met with me and we made plans to meet later that night for apartment hunting.  I got a glorious meal at the Japanese fast food chain Yoshinoya, which cost me less than $3 American, and left with a spring in my step. 

The first apartment was...a bit lacking.  In many things.  Apparently, the Chinese don't do closed showers.  That's a western thing.  This...took some wrapping of my head around.  There's just a drain in the floor and a detachable faucet next to the toilet.  Whaaaaaaaat?!  But, when I assured my agent of my willingness to commute, the Chinese subway system being very similar to Japan's train system, we began to make more progress.  We found a great neighborhood a good 30-40 minutes away by subway with some beautiful apartments and great surroundings, full of open marketplaces, supermarkets, knock off Wal-marts, etc.  I felt safe, I felt comfortable, I felt like I might be happy.  And there were closed showers.  Thank god.  We only found one in my budget range that I wanted, as the other good one was above my pay, though I would have taken it, it was that nice, but god almighty, was it a nice place.

From my odyssey, which began at 7am, to the conclusion of apartment hunting at 10pm, I was exhausted, but hopeful for the first time since landing.  I made arrangements to reserve the apartment and began planning.  Throughout this, my agent was very kind, very talkative, and helped me so much, despite my inexperience and my...rather demanding housing wishes.  I was truly grateful.  It was finally time to relax a little.

September 13

Today, I relax after much struggle.  I did a bit of exploring around my hotel, but there's not much to tell.  I'm still amazed at the way Asia in general seems to be set up.  Despite the trash, or the smell, seriously New Jersey would go "the hell?!" or the crowded space, China always has room for parks, trees, and small areas of respite.  Next to one I took a break at I was again amazed at the prices.  I bought lunch for 80 cents, or roughly 5RMB.  It was a pretty tasty falafel/wrap with cabbage, sauce, and bread crumbs inside.  And this next to a store selling 80RMB beef bowls.  In China, you can find great deals, but perhaps not always equal deals.  If you pass on the 10RMB kabob, you may find a cheaper meal, but not a cheaper kabob.  It all depends.  Speaking of kabobs, I had those for dinner.  Very tasty.  I got 4 for 20RMB, less than $4 American.  Amazing prices here.

The internet deserves mention.  Most people complain about the oppressiveness of the great firewall, but...really, it's not oppressive so much as it is annoying.  I can still do almost anything online, from Kotaku, to Hearthstone, to Devil's Panties, with decent speed.  Only a select few things are blocked, like google or facebook, so I'd have to use Yahoo to search and a Chinese equivalent to keep up with others.  My vpn is a little temperamental/stupid, so my access to these things is unreliable.  Honestly, it's not scary or lonely or anything else bad, it's just annoying.  When I want to load up Casey likes games, featuring Game Crazed from Tome, or hear a let's player be adorable with puppies, I don't want to be locked out by a firewall or kept at minimal speed by a VPN.  Eventually, the firewall will be dropped, I feel certain.  Whether that's in my lifetime or not...who knows.

Fun fact.  I got to see that English speaking actors actually get in Chinese movies, some speaking English.  And we never see them.  Today, I saw a kid go back to the feudal era of China to free Sun Wukong, the monkey king, from his imprisonment by the Jade Warlord.  The start and end of the movie was all in English too...pretty interesting stuff, honestly.  Whole other industry we don't see, some of it very cool.  Food for thought.

September 14-15

Medical check was pretty standard.  I had no issues with it, though the lack of breakfast was a bit annoying.  One thing that I have learned, from riding in a car and from trying to avoid them is that in China, traffic laws are, at best, suggestions.  Cars will frequently come very close to clipping pedestrians and you tend to either run out of the way or give them a wide berth to avoid collision.  This does speed up traffic and the people traveling on foot can jay walk or do as they please...it's just all at your own peril.  Very similar to NYC in my opinion.  No one seems to give a single crap when it comes to traffic.

September 18

Finding an apartment in China is a nightmare without an agent and even with a good agent, it's a serious pain.  You can have your apartment stolen from you at the drop of a hat if you don't pay a holding fee and you need to drop 4 months rent in advance in most places, then pay quarterly, in order to keep it.  On top of that, you pay your separate bills in a really weird way.  Water and electricity have cards that you have to "recharge" at either a bank or the management office.  Also, water can be divided into hot, cold, and toilet water, each with separate bills. What's more, transferring money isn't as simple as writing a check...no, you have to get cash and deliver it to an atm, transferring it directly to your landlords account...it's friggin complicated, dude!  Also, you have to let the police know whenever you move to a new place, cause the government likes to know where you are.  It's...an adjustment to the states, admittedly.  The prices do tend to be lower for all the utilities, though if you want a decent apartment you have to pay comparable prices to the U.S.  I find a lot of these things to be very annoying, since I could just auto pay most things back home with no issue.

Free tip.  Don't try and get an apartment without an agent.  You do have to pay them a fee for their work, but god damn, it's nearly impossible to figure all this out without a good agent who's bilingual.  God bless mine, she works so hard and deals with so much.  Ugh...sometimes, I love Asia for it's public transit and good street food, sometimes I hate it for how needlessly convoluted everything is.

September 21

I've almost finished my TEFL training and good god, am I tired.  So tired I don't really even want to game or write.  I've had a hell of a time paying my rent and trying to get my internet setup, which is, again, needlessly convoluted.  You pay for the whole year in advance.  In China...sure, why not?  Not like I haven't had other weird crap thrown at me this week.  Going through culture shock in a bad way.  Love the street culture of China with the many vendors and food sellers, but I hate how tiresomely complicated things get.  Anyway, let's talk about western fast food in the east.  It is better.  Period.  The east takes the greasy crap we eat at home and makes it better.  KFC has become my comfort food in this tough time, due to the decent portion sizes, reasonable price, and western flavor with eastern may-not-kill-you...ness.

I move out of my hotel and into my apartment soon.  Praying I survive until October and my first paycheck.

September 23rd

Not sure if I'm being screwed with or not by the divine.  Finished my TEFL training and moved all my heavy stuff to my apartment by cab.  The cab ride cost me less than 5 bucks American and I managed to spend about 150-200 yuan less on start up stuff for my apartment than I thought, things like bath mats and towels, pillows, etc.  Still need more, but this stuff was essential to make it livable.  However, to get my swag home, I had to go to two different stores and spend about 2 miles in the rain...so saved money, but got drenched.  Tradeoffs?  Beijing is beginning to wear on me, though I am still in the culture shock phase, so it is only natural.  I just want some regularity and to stop scrambling.  Need to go to the police station tomorrow with my agent to register with them.  After that, I will hopefully get my agent to help me figure out how the hell my Chinese washing machine works.

Fun fact.  China is big into security.  Now, a lot of people take this to mean that big brother is watching.  Not so sure about that, since I only surf the net if I can get my VPN to work, but there is a very palpable feel of security in many areas in China.  Most parks, buildings not family owned, apartment complexes, offices, etc. have visible security guards and sometimes gates.  There is also a regular baggage check on the subway, where all bags are put through x-rays, not unlike our airports stateside.  Do these guys keep people safe?  Not sure, myself.  I've seen security guards who are barely out of their teens.  However, they are noticeable, with their uniforms and arm bands.  I think that's the point.  They're not watching you or judging you, they are there to be seen.  To let miscreants know that someone is watching, even if they can't do anything.  I've yet to see any crime happen in the city and I think the visible presence of this security is a reason for that.  Do these guys slack off?  Probably at some point.  No security is 24 hours and sometimes people will open the gate because residents are coming and going.  But the fact that they are seen is...strangely reassuring.  The security isn't like American security or the police.  They aren't armed 9/10 times and don't really interact much with the people.  They don't hassle or question or have to meet quotas for speeding tickets.  But they are there.  I think that's the point.  So, if you go to China, expect to see men standing around and looking after stores.  It's pretty common actually and I've already gotten used to it.

September 25-26

Welp, started at my center.  Still in training, not teaching yet.  Had a few mini meltdowns along the way, China is a pain to get used to.  The internet is frustrating, I had to find a new VPN and China has no laundry hampers, no dryers, and no washers that don't leave a pool of water still in the washer after they finish.  I like my center, the other teachers are nice, but life is still hard.  Had to go to a bank, wait in line, charge a card, and then put the card into my circuit boards back home to get power...also, while I love my mall, the bathrooms in China are abyssal.  Worse than the hole in the ground toilets in some parts of rural Japan.  Also, fun fact, there is often as much smoke on the inside as there is out.  Pollution on the outside and people smoke like crazy indoors, even in areas where they shouldn't.  Not on a bus or subway, but in bathrooms or rooms no one frequents...I walked into a bathroom and it was like walking into a smoke stack...god almighty.

China is remarkably backwards for a country that is so technologically advanced.  Lots of banks and atms with cards, but everyone uses cash.  The internet is pathetic, something from the bygone age of dial up.  Despite the fact that everyone has an iphone or a smart phone, people still ride archaic bikes with jerry rigged motors or use horses to haul produce for sale.  You can buy earbuds on the street for almost any mp3 player alongside literally a stove that people haul around in a cart to sell food they cook on the street from.  It's a weird time here...

September 27-30

Finished my first week of work in China!  Kinda!  I've still basically got training wheels on at the center where I teach, only doing 1-2 classes a day while planning or observing the rest of the time.  I like this job.  Not love it though.  Ironically, the reasons I don't love it are only tangentially related to it.  The 45 minute subway ride each way has gotten a bit annoying, as has the bathrooms where I literally try not sit down due to how poor they are.  If those two things were not an issue, this would probably be the best job ever.  Teaching has its ups and downs and my first day was abysmal.  I took my criticisms to heart though and improved myself greatly.  No longer as worried, though the long hours coupled with the fact that I still need to get situated teaching 5 classes a day will take some getting used to.  My co-workers are amazing.  Very warm, funny people, our senior most teacher being one of the most awesome human beings I've ever met(got about half a dozen or so I hold in higher regard.  You know who you are.)

Anyway, that aside, I have had my first bout with illness here.  Fighting it off as best I can with Chinese medicine, but still sniffly and possibly looking at either strep or sore throat for a few days.  Got the PSB, Public Safety Bureau still to do, which is basically me showing that I have set up shop here in China and we're applying for my big boy Visa.  Important.  Remember, I talked already about how China is big into security.  Good news is that the national holiday is almost here, so I can expect four days off starting now.  Looking forward to catching my breath after almost 3 straight weeks of running.

Reflections: A Travelers Memories

Here we go.  Final reflection for this epic journey.  This one is entirely self indulgent on my part.  I'm not trying to make any grandiose statements, I'm just looking back at the memories I treasure the most from Japan.  So, without further ado, let's get started.

Top of the list of my favorite memories is my journey to see the UshiTora project.  Theater Om is a tiny little theater that virtually no foreigner has heard of, performing a play that few English speakers would even be able to comprehend.  I loved my trip to watch the play based on Ushio and Tora.  The theater was hard to find and I had to look around, making this more akin to a quest or adventure than anything, but once inside the tiny, unobtrusive theater, I was blown away.  The dedication to the source material, the music, the lights, the costumes and acting, everything was a brilliant tribute to the nerd culture that Ushio and Tora fans love.  This experience is the second most remembered part of my trip to Japan.  It was one not catered for foreigners, it was something I had to go find, some "pure" Japanese culture.  For anyone traveling to Japan, I'd say this.  Sure, go and enjoy the usual tourist sites, Hiroshima, Nara, etc. but go find something esoteric that you love, something purely Japanese, and take a leap.  It will be totally worthwhile.  The experiences not catered to foreigners offer a beautiful taste of Japan undiluted by expectations of pleasing the west.

On a more somber note, the trip to Hiroshima was the most terrifying experience for me in Japan.  More than first arriving, more than being alone and without friends, seeing the destruction my country wrought and hearing someone speak about their own living hell was shocking to my core.  I felt I needed to be there, to see and to hear, but it was an unsettling experience.  I would only recommend it to those who want to be challenged, because the information gathered at the peace museum will challenge your ideas of right, wrong, and patriotism to its core.

On a lighter note, I also have to comment about my first shopping spree in Japan.  This might seem minor, but just getting a chance to immerse myself in the pop culture and see all the curios for sale was fantastic.  Scouring manga stores, a super market full of the strangest food you'll likely see, a mall full of Japanese games and model kits, a nirvana for both the traveler seeking something new and the nerd looking for his holy grail.  It was something I never got used to, as I could always find something to gape at in ANY of the stores in Japan.

Along the same note, the food was unbelievable.  Delicious, but at the same time a shock to my body, it was the healthiest meals I've ever eaten, even the fast food there is miles ahead of the fast food in the states.  The freshness of the food, the exquisite taste, and the restaurants, including my personal favorite, the takoyaki/yakisoba man who I frequented most.  DO NOT go for American food in Japan.  Experiment, because you'll find it matches your palette perfectly, no matter who you are.

One memory I can't shake are all the times I stumbled with the language and all the times I managed to eke out a small victory.  I never realize how weak my language skills were until I had to be immersed in it.  The people speak quickly, in low voices, and it's difficult for me to process, even after almost two years of practice.  It was frustrating.  At the same time, when you managed to remember a phrase you've never used, conjugate it correctly, and be perfectly understood by the Japanese, there is a sense of pride welling up inside you that is hard to forget.  I had this happen a number of times, like when I got lost and had to ask police, in Japanese, to help me find my way.  Likewise, I struggled often with countless renditions of "Mooichido, onegashimasu" or "Wakarimasen."  I need to study more, but I've improved thanks to this trip.

My experiences in a small town with my friend Na-chan were also very precious to me, as I got insight into Japanese home life.  The homes are small, but the space is used to great effect, so that a number of people can share a small home without being too crowded.  And Japanese cooking, done right, by a real Japanese mother, is fantastic.  While not that different from American cooking on some levels, it's healthier by far and just...tasty.  I'm glad I didn't decide to homestay, for reasons I'll talk about later, but I did enjoy meeting a Japanese family and exploring a typical small town.  I would love to live in ANY of the towns I visited in Japan.  Speaking of small towns, I love the atmosphere of Japan.  The mix of rustic and technological, the strange and the familiar, the mixing of nature with industry...it's beautiful.

One memory that's not usual, but which I still love, is the time difference.  In Japan, I was able to live and function like an actual human being.  My internal clock made it easier to just...live.  After coming back to the states and spending sleepless nights awake and tired days napping, I realize how Japan wasn't just good for my physical health, but my mental health.  I slept well there, I was seldom truly tired...it's something I miss.

Of all my memories, the ones I treasure the most are, ironically enough, not those exclusive to Japan at all.  Granted, there are elements of Japan in there, but the memories I treasure the most are finding some real friends and spending time with them.  My personal favorite of these times are my trips to Kyoto and Fushimi Inari, which are great cultural sites in their own right, but spent with my friends, they became something amazing.  Looking through stores, getting lost, tasting the local cuisine, it was just fun being with those who accept you for who you are, and believe me, my first trip to Kyoto was with people who hated me and who I came to be distasteful of.  Going back with people I could have fun with, it was like a totally different experience.  Or, just eating dinner, a Japanese dinner, with people like that was amazingly fun.  I made new friends who I determined to never forget and to keep up with for as long as I could.  And hopefully someday we can go back to Japan together.

There were a lot of other grand memories, but these are the ones that stick out most in my mind.  And honestly, there were lots of memories I wanted to make but couldn't, like visiting Tokyo.  But, despite this, if I died tomorrow...I'd have a ton fewer regrets.  Japan was an experience unlike any other, one that I someday hope to replicate.

It's been a trial at times, but being in Japan was fantastic.  And that's all I have to say on the matter...on this blog, at least.  I'm sure I'll return here eventually, like when I travel to Japan again or to any of the other places I want to visit like Brazil or the UK.  Until then, though, I wish you good fortune, dear viewers.  And encourage you to try an experience like this for yourself.  It's one you will not easily forget.

Reflections: A world of Social Etiquette and feudal empires

Well, it's that time again.  This is my second to last post on the subject of Japan and I hope I can do justice to the topic.  The topic being culture.  I' m reminded of a phrase used by an internet critic on that subject, describing Japan as a complex tapestry of social etiquette and feudal empires.  And recently, at my birthday, I had a chance to reflect back on the different aspects of Japan's culture for my family and friends.

First, it's important to understand a little about Shinto for some of the social rules to make sense.  It is more of a cultural phenomenon than an established religion, as it permeates every part of Japanese culture.  Within it are certain guidelines.  For example, blood is an impure substance and the color red is likewise impure.  However, white, salt, sake, and rice are all considered pure.  This is probably why most rice in Japan is eaten white.  It is meant to be a customary show of purity.  While this might seem like a silly idea, much of Japanese culture is determined by such Shinto ideals.  Cars, houses, and people have times in their lives where they seek purification.  On auspicious days, people are more prone to dress in white, as it suggests purity and a freedom from evil deeds.  And other such practices permeate the landscape.  I do not believe that some Japanese are even aware of the origins of these practices.  They just do them out of habit.  Similar to visiting a temple but not knowing the deity to whom they pray.

Japan is also very highly focused on dignity and the preservation of ones honor.  To that end, people who are hurt or who might seem lost or in need of help are rarely offered help.  This should not be misinterpreted as the Japanese being cruel.  Far from it.  Seldom ever will you meet a more helpful or honest person on the street than a Japanese person.  However, it is social etiquette to not ask people if they need help, as that would embarrass them and ultimately bring shame to them, which is a big deal in Japan.  People who ask for help are given it freely and enthusiastically, but until one asks, it is unlikely they will receive it on their own.  In supermarkets or department stores, for example, no one asks if you need help like they do in America.  They leave you be and if you need guidance, you can ask and people will assist.

Along the same lines of dignity, manners are crucially important to Japanese culture.  Every time one enters a store people welcome you and whenever you leave, they wish you good luck on your way.  People are expected to say when they are leaving and returning and all those in earshot wish them good luck or a welcome return.  The equivalent of a short grace or a thanks given for a meal is present at the start and end of every Japanese meal.  It can be a little daunting for an outsider.  However, to my own frustration at times, Gaijin are not really required to follow these laws of social etiquette.  They are exempt purely because of how they look and act, so the Japanese have already judged them based on that.  While this can be a godsend for someone seeking romance, since between the Japanese, public displays of affection, even one as simple as holding hands, is discouraged, it can be annoying when you want to immerse yourself in the culture.

There are also, of course, the rules that many would define as strange.  In Japan, slurping noodles is polite, as it compliments the cook.  Eating rice with sauces is discouraged, as it fouls the pure white rice.  And of course, the importance of public bathing.  While I never went to an onsen or open bath, to my shame, I know from my readings that these are some of the few places where people can let down their hair and get clean, both physically and spiritually.  In a world of structure, manners, and rigidity, places to just relax are important.  Some companies and organizations encourage employees to bath together so they can get to know the real them.  While not all of these make sense to a western audience, especially given our less rigid and less polite etiquette in the states, they make perfect sense to the Japanese.  That's kind of what matters in subjects like this.

I personally believe that these manners, along with the willingness of the Japanese to adapt to new situations, is what makes them so open to foreigners.  Granted, there are a few people stuck in the past who don't like foreigners in Japan but the polite hospitality of Japan extends to more than just its own people.  However, these manners can also seem restrictive to me.  Many of the rules emphasize a submission to a greater authority, in school, at home, or at work.  Failure to comply with or meet all the demands of the greater authority can lead to more than just personal chastisement, but to ostracizing by those around you.  It can be a scary sight to behold.  While I haven't personally seen someone stoned or run out of a building for such reasons, I have seen people grow colder to those who have challenged their leaders.  This can be especially scary for teenagers entering a rebellious phase.  Even then, however, the manners and etiquette provide at least the appearance of civility...which is something, I suppose.

Really, it's impossible to break down all the nuances of Japanese culture into a single blog post.  Hell, even a series of books wouldn't be enough.  I suppose the take away message is that the Japanese are very polite and hold dear to their manners and standards of social etiquette.  Sometimes they follow traditions, especially around the holidays, that are ironclad, even if they don't understand what they mean.  And often enough, people's personal pride and dignity are put over their well being, to such an extent that even victims of an accident or a death in the family will not receive sympathy unless they openly seek it.  It's not perfect, by any means, but the nature of Japan's culture and the importance of social etiquette make it a place that will be jarring to foreigners, if only because of how welcoming and kind people appear to be.  And they are genuinely kind and welcoming.  But sometimes, one wonders what lies  behind the masks of social etiquette.  Anyway, I don't have nearly enough experience to comment on such things.  I'm just making some broad observations.

Up next will be my final reflection on Japan before I put this blog to rest...at least until my next trip abroad.  I intend to highlight my fondest memories and the best trips.  So look forward to it.

Reflections: What Wondrous Sights to See

Well, it's that time again.  I am tired and don't want to do anything else...so, I've decided to reflect on Japan and how much I miss it.  Specifically, on all the sights I've seen and how they compare to similar tourist sights in America.

Though I traveled a great deal in Japan and visited many great tourist attractions, it was often difficult for me to tell where the tourist site began and the town ended.  They were often woven so intricately together that it was difficult to tell them apart, save for the sites being a bit more ostentatious.  Okay, maybe that doesn't make perfect sense, but it's the atmosphere.  The sites don't seem separate or different from the towns they are in.  They've grown together organically.  To me, this was a stark contrast to all the memorial parks or big buildings in the States that I had seen, things like the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty seem cut off, separate from an area, while places such as Fushimi Inari or the Hiroshima Peace Museum are rooted in the towns around them.

There is also an air of tradition around the specific sites in Japan.  Temples have a bit of decorum to be looked after, such as services or offerings to the guardian deities, traditional food from the area is served around such sites, and as a whole, it feels...I don't know, a bit more authentically Japanese than anything else I've seen.  In America, the tradition doesn't seem to be there.

Above all else, the sites I saw moved me because of the atmosphere and surroundings.  Even though Japan is a densely packed Island nation, you wouldn't know to look at it from any of the major sights.  There is a great respect for nature, especially mountains and trees.  They have signs around them asking not to litter, typically by saying please don't anger the mountain or something, are cared for by those around them, and make the industrialized country seem more rustic than many small towns in the states.  This atmosphere is one of the charming aspects of Japan and the sights to be seen.

In total, went to Kyoto 5 times, saw 4 different theater performances, visited around 7 temples, saw the Hiroshima Peace Museum, and traveled to several small towns, both to see these sights and to just explore.  In total, that's more than I've seen in nearly a decade in the states.  The only experience close to this was when I traveled cross country with my family, and even then, the sights we saw didn't compare to the majesty and the atmosphere of Japan.  I miss it dearly.  I also have to mention that this kind of free travel wouldn't have been possible without their excellent public transportation system.

I guess looking back, I don't have much to say about my travels and the sights I've seen that hasn't already been said before.  I suppose the take away from this is that the atmosphere, the tradition, and how organic the sights felt were what enchanted me.  They were so different from the States, which often is a mash up of cultures, as we are a melting pot, but in Japan...I suppose everything feels Japanese.

I'd recommend seeing as many sights as possible for those who are considering a trip to Japan.  While I didn't include my travels to the big city, Osaka, in these journals, but it too was an amazing experience, as the city felt much different, much safer, much more labyrinthine than the states.  The atmosphere was different, as was the layout.

I guess this reflection is going to be a bit short.  My apologies for that, but I've already covered my travels in painstaking detail in past posts.  Look to those if you missed anything.  Up next, a reflection on the culture, on Japan, and on my precious memories of the trip.

Reflections: The wonders of public Transporatation

Okay, after nearly dying from all my jet lag, seriously, I'm not used to being so tired all the time...STOP LAUGHING!  Anyway, I decided to do another reflection tonight.  After a long drive home and several busy days with lots of commuting between my parents house and my apartment, I found myself pining for Japan again.

Yes, I've been pining for Japan since I left, but let me tell you a little something about the wonder's of public transportation.  While Japan does have cars, it's hard for any foreigners to use, usually.  They drive on the opposite side of the road, the steering wheel is on the opposite side and often cars have to navigate incredibly thin stretchs of road, where wall and metal are mere centimeters apart.  In short, owning a car in Japan can be useful, but it is a lot of trouble.

While I was in Japan I went for a bike.  It was great exercise, the roads and sidewalks were better designed to support them, I.E. we actually had side walks and crosswalks specifically for bikes, and above all else, the cities were so small and well designed you could really get anywhere you needed to be with a bike in practically no time at all.  But what about for when you wanted to go on a road trip, see the sights, you know, travel?  Well, this is where public transport comes in.

There are three basic levels of public transit in Japan.  Buses, trains, and the more expensive Shinkansen.  Buses are for convenience more than necessity.  They allow people to easily navigate almost any city so long as they understand basic Japanese and Kanji.  The fee is usually very reasonable, usually around 1-4 dollars to get around the whole city, and they follow a timetable that is easy to plan around and reliable.  I road a bus for the better part of my semester whenever I needed to get to the train station.  They were reliable and usually had enough space for everyone.  Main problem is expense.  Using a bus regularly can prove expensive.  I must have spent at least $40 or more a month on buses before I stopped and started walking.  Still, compared to the buses I've ridden in bigger cities like New York or the noticeably crappier school buses of my youth, the Japanese bus system is leagues above our own, offering reliable transportation around a city for commuters or tourists.

Trains are next and they are invaluable in Japan.  Like buses they have clear timetables and schedules, locations are easily laid out for people to see on handy little maps, and pricing is easy and typically very cheap.  Unlike buses, they connect towns in a region and are important for allowing commuters to: go to school, go to work, visit exotic locales, and visit with family/friends.  Trains in Japan make it easy for people to take a trip on the weekend or whenever to a place they might not be able to reach by bike or bus, such as Kyoto, Nara, or Fushimi Inari, all of which were connected to Hirakata by train.  Sometimes you need to change trains a few times or take subway lines, which are basically underground trains, but with a proper knowledge of trains, they are invaluable for getting around.  While they can be crowded, the cheap price makes it easy for people to explore Japan or to commute between places.  Trains can be as cheap as 2 bucks a trip or as expensive as 10, usually.  The lack of cheap trains in the states puzzles me a bit.  The transportation is cheap, usually clean, and reliable.  It worked very well in Japan.  Granted, they sank millions into public transit and had tracks all over the country connecting it by train.  The states invested more in cars...for some reason.  I guess I miss being able to just walk or bike down to the train station to go someplace new or fun, instead of getting in my car and driving for an hour...

Shinkansens, or bullet trains, while novel, aren't that special compared to Japanese trains and buses.  Sure, they go fast, but the price is comparable to train prices in the states for traveling great distances, or cheap plane tickets.  The only real difference is speed, as the Shinkansen is faster than trains in the US.  They're actually kind of boring, once you've ridden one.  To me, they're not that different from planes...just on the ground and a bit faster getting on and off.

So...the public transportation in Japan is wonderful and I really loved it, but is it that big a deal?  Well...I'd be lying if I said I didn't miss the freedom of my car.  While not as motivated to explore as trains, as they can only go to a few set stops, the freedom of the car in the US allows me to go anywhere quickly and to really live my life.  In Japan, with crowded roads and much more readily available public transportation, I can see why cars are downplayed and trains made king.  Here in the states, though, cars can take people anywhere, with privacy and comfort not offered by public transportation.  Sure, the Japanese keep to themselves and public transport is relatively quiet, but the closeness people put up with for it annoyed me to a degree.

In the end, I found it to be more of a cultural thing.  I found public transportation convenient and got a chance to people watch, so to speak.  Watching the Japanese on a train can tell you alot about them as a people, as even small children take trains or buses unattended, due to the ease of their use and the character of the people on trains.  I would like to see more cheap trains in America, which would make for easy holidays for some people, but really...it's not going to happen anytime soon.  I feel we're stuck with our cars.  Besides, I doubt Americans could make the trains run with the same efficiency of the Japanese, who apologize for even a minute's tardiness on the train platform.

While I miss them, trains aren't that much better than cars.  It really depends on the culture, layout of the country, and your personal preference.  At least, that's my opinion on Japanese public transportation. 

Home again, home again

Well, it's official, dear readers.  I'm home.  I have to say that making landfall in the states was...a bit less happy than I thought it would be.  If anything, I was a little sick to my stomach, having left the mystic land of Japan and the great friends I made to return to the land of grease and excess.  Granted, I have friends and my family living in the states, but I couldn't shake the sentiment.  Still, I've been here only 1 day and after getting some REAL soda and barbecue in my stomach, I can safely say, it's good to be back.

Perhaps I should explain a bit more about my trip and leading up to departure.  I had my hands full before leaving Japan.  I had to clean up my room, the kitchen, basically get rid of the traces that I had been there...then go.  My flight was in the morning, so I was allowed to stay the night, but it was somber, getting ready to leave.  My friends were very kind though, giving me gifts to send me off and spending as much time with me as they could before I left.  It was sad, parting with these people I had come to know so well.  We stay in touch through skype and facebook but...when I was hugging my close friends at the bus stop, I felt an unbearable desire to just stay...even if that would be impossible.

Once I was on the bus, I had to carry three bags and my laptop all the way to the planes, and beyond.  In total, I was in the air about 18 hours, which in truth spanned almost two days since we crossed the international date line in my flight across the pacific.  I took one bus, three trains, three plains, and a long car ride to get home.  I was tired, broken, and a bit ready to just die by the time my parents found me.  Strangely, my depression had subsided somewhat.  I knew that I'd meet my friends again. I'd make that happen.

Still, the trip gave me a lot to think about.  How Japan was different than the states, how my life had changed in the last few months, how I had changed in the last few months...I intend to do some more reflections on them, but suffice it to say, I've been thinking a great deal in the last day or two.

It feels like I'm battling a lot...Jetlag, this sudden loneliness of being separated from my peers, and the culture shock...it's quite a bit to handle.  Just for an example, today I got my first taste of North Carolinian BBQ in almost 4 months.  I was astonished by the taste, by the amount, the size, and by the soda.  In Japan, soda costs almost as much as beer or wine at restaurants.  And NO refills.  This was a good shock, but...seeing the congested roads, I also had a bad shock, pining for the time when only bikes and scooters really crowded the streets.

I'll recover soon, and when I do I'll post more about my reflections.  Suffice it to say, I miss Japan terribly, but I recognize that the states aren't so bad.  I'm glad to be home.  As for my trip?  Well, it was a struggle at first.  Adjusting to the classes, the pop culture, the customs, and especially the food of Japan was tough.  I had problems making good friends and fell in with a few jerks.  But, I got to see some amazing sights and experience the whole of Japanese culture.  That, on its own, would make the trip worthwhile.  But, I also got to meet a number of wonderful people, both Japanese and from other countries.  I forged some great memories.  Obviously, my reluctance to return home should show how much of an affection I gained for Japan.

On the whole, my trip had a few snags getting started, but about halfway through, it picked up and I found a happiness I'd not experienced in a long time.  Traveling to see the sights with my friends was a wonderful experience.  I would do another trip like this in a split second.  I recommend everyone give it a try, actually.  Japan is a wonderful place to visit, even if I couldn't imagine living there...not that I didn't try.

That's all for now...I'm tired and still trying to adjust, so I'll be absent for a few days.  After Christmas though, I'll wrap up this trip with my reflections on, culture, sights, travel, and Japan as a whole.  I'll also give a brief reflection on my most treasured memories.  Look forward to it, dear readers.

Fushimi and Departure Blues

First, a thank you to all my readers who decided to stick with me through this odyssey.  I hope to see and speak with all of you when I get home...assuming I can make it home without getting lost.  Anyway, I have one last story before I go, then departure woes.

My story relates to the grand site of Fushimi Inari, a set of shrines that are placed on a massive mountain, with a hall of Tori gates leading up to each.  It was a long, hard climb with one of my dearest, closest friends I've made here along for the right with me.  We both got tired and sore and lost, seeing several unseen and hidden shrines that were off the beaten path, but there wasn't much to it.

For those who don't know, Inari is a rice deity and his helpers are mystic foxes.  We went because A) I wanted to go and B) my friend wanted to go and had a ton of 1 yen coins to get rid of.  The trip was uneventful, save for how much fun I had just being around my friend.  We did get lost going off the beaten path, but actually managed to cross the entire mountain, ending up in the next town over, to our surprise.  We got help from a Japanese man who spoke good English and found a zen gate repaired by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan's most famous Shoguns.  Though we were tired and exhausted, it was a great trip.

Pictures are as follows:

 The Tori Gate leading into the Fushimi area.

 The start of the shrine and its Inari guardians.

 Start of the Tori Gate tunnel.

 Just look at that...that is spellbinding.

 One of the Inari Shrines.

 Praying for Inari's mercy and aid in the future.

 Top of the world, Ma!

 The bibs and hats are really cute.

 The Zen gate.

Even the train station has Inari's guardians watching over it.

Okay, now for the heavy stuff.  I depart for America in almost 30 hours.  I'm depressed.  I've made many friends, but my recent traveling companion has moved me beyond mere words.  I know we'll keep up, but I'll miss her terribly.  I think meetings like that are what make life worthwhile...but it still saddens me, to the point where I wonder if I can get on the plane.  There's a lot of that going around and once again I feel like a man walking towards a noose and just waiting for the hangman to finish me.  Morbid, perhaps, but that's how I feel.  I'll survive, but the countdown has begun.

My time in Japan has given me many cherished memories, but beyond all the famous sites I've seen, it's the small memories I cherish the most.  My first REAL friends, because I did have fake ones here, my encounters with the crepe lady and the Takoyaki/yakisoba man, my clubbing experience and times with newer friends...and my dear friend.  All of these are precious to me, as precious as seeing the Ushitora show or going to Kyoto alone.  I think that's something important to remember.  The people around you make all the wonderful sites of the world even more wonderful.  It's all about the company you keep sometimes.  I won't let my friends forget me anytime soon.

And before I get too maudlin again, I do have some good news.  SOPA has been stalled, so at least I have one less thing to worry about.  The internet will still exist when I get home.  Speaking of which, I should go.  This will be my last actual post in Japan.  I'll try to post when I land, but it might be the next day.  I depart soon and should have all my plans in order.  I'll see you all in the states, hopefully.

Till then, be well, everyone.