Here we go. Final reflection for this epic journey. This one is entirely self indulgent on my part. I'm not trying to make any grandiose statements, I'm just looking back at the memories I treasure the most from Japan. So, without further ado, let's get started.
Top of the list of my favorite memories is my journey to see the UshiTora project. Theater Om is a tiny little theater that virtually no foreigner has heard of, performing a play that few English speakers would even be able to comprehend. I loved my trip to watch the play based on Ushio and Tora. The theater was hard to find and I had to look around, making this more akin to a quest or adventure than anything, but once inside the tiny, unobtrusive theater, I was blown away. The dedication to the source material, the music, the lights, the costumes and acting, everything was a brilliant tribute to the nerd culture that Ushio and Tora fans love. This experience is the second most remembered part of my trip to Japan. It was one not catered for foreigners, it was something I had to go find, some "pure" Japanese culture. For anyone traveling to Japan, I'd say this. Sure, go and enjoy the usual tourist sites, Hiroshima, Nara, etc. but go find something esoteric that you love, something purely Japanese, and take a leap. It will be totally worthwhile. The experiences not catered to foreigners offer a beautiful taste of Japan undiluted by expectations of pleasing the west.
On a more somber note, the trip to Hiroshima was the most terrifying experience for me in Japan. More than first arriving, more than being alone and without friends, seeing the destruction my country wrought and hearing someone speak about their own living hell was shocking to my core. I felt I needed to be there, to see and to hear, but it was an unsettling experience. I would only recommend it to those who want to be challenged, because the information gathered at the peace museum will challenge your ideas of right, wrong, and patriotism to its core.
On a lighter note, I also have to comment about my first shopping spree in Japan. This might seem minor, but just getting a chance to immerse myself in the pop culture and see all the curios for sale was fantastic. Scouring manga stores, a super market full of the strangest food you'll likely see, a mall full of Japanese games and model kits, a nirvana for both the traveler seeking something new and the nerd looking for his holy grail. It was something I never got used to, as I could always find something to gape at in ANY of the stores in Japan.
Along the same note, the food was unbelievable. Delicious, but at the same time a shock to my body, it was the healthiest meals I've ever eaten, even the fast food there is miles ahead of the fast food in the states. The freshness of the food, the exquisite taste, and the restaurants, including my personal favorite, the takoyaki/yakisoba man who I frequented most. DO NOT go for American food in Japan. Experiment, because you'll find it matches your palette perfectly, no matter who you are.
One memory I can't shake are all the times I stumbled with the language and all the times I managed to eke out a small victory. I never realize how weak my language skills were until I had to be immersed in it. The people speak quickly, in low voices, and it's difficult for me to process, even after almost two years of practice. It was frustrating. At the same time, when you managed to remember a phrase you've never used, conjugate it correctly, and be perfectly understood by the Japanese, there is a sense of pride welling up inside you that is hard to forget. I had this happen a number of times, like when I got lost and had to ask police, in Japanese, to help me find my way. Likewise, I struggled often with countless renditions of "Mooichido, onegashimasu" or "Wakarimasen." I need to study more, but I've improved thanks to this trip.
My experiences in a small town with my friend Na-chan were also very precious to me, as I got insight into Japanese home life. The homes are small, but the space is used to great effect, so that a number of people can share a small home without being too crowded. And Japanese cooking, done right, by a real Japanese mother, is fantastic. While not that different from American cooking on some levels, it's healthier by far and just...tasty. I'm glad I didn't decide to homestay, for reasons I'll talk about later, but I did enjoy meeting a Japanese family and exploring a typical small town. I would love to live in ANY of the towns I visited in Japan. Speaking of small towns, I love the atmosphere of Japan. The mix of rustic and technological, the strange and the familiar, the mixing of nature with industry...it's beautiful.
One memory that's not usual, but which I still love, is the time difference. In Japan, I was able to live and function like an actual human being. My internal clock made it easier to just...live. After coming back to the states and spending sleepless nights awake and tired days napping, I realize how Japan wasn't just good for my physical health, but my mental health. I slept well there, I was seldom truly tired...it's something I miss.
Of all my memories, the ones I treasure the most are, ironically enough, not those exclusive to Japan at all. Granted, there are elements of Japan in there, but the memories I treasure the most are finding some real friends and spending time with them. My personal favorite of these times are my trips to Kyoto and Fushimi Inari, which are great cultural sites in their own right, but spent with my friends, they became something amazing. Looking through stores, getting lost, tasting the local cuisine, it was just fun being with those who accept you for who you are, and believe me, my first trip to Kyoto was with people who hated me and who I came to be distasteful of. Going back with people I could have fun with, it was like a totally different experience. Or, just eating dinner, a Japanese dinner, with people like that was amazingly fun. I made new friends who I determined to never forget and to keep up with for as long as I could. And hopefully someday we can go back to Japan together.
There were a lot of other grand memories, but these are the ones that stick out most in my mind. And honestly, there were lots of memories I wanted to make but couldn't, like visiting Tokyo. But, despite this, if I died tomorrow...I'd have a ton fewer regrets. Japan was an experience unlike any other, one that I someday hope to replicate.
It's been a trial at times, but being in Japan was fantastic. And that's all I have to say on the matter...on this blog, at least. I'm sure I'll return here eventually, like when I travel to Japan again or to any of the other places I want to visit like Brazil or the UK. Until then, though, I wish you good fortune, dear viewers. And encourage you to try an experience like this for yourself. It's one you will not easily forget.
Greeting, gentle readers. Many of you know of this blog already as a record of experiences in Japan during times of schooling, however I have since upgraded it. I have traveled throughout not just Japan, but other areas of Asia as well and hope to share my experiences with others on the subject. I hope the experiences and colorful commentary are to your liking. Happy reading!
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Monday, January 23, 2012
Reflections: A world of Social Etiquette and feudal empires
Well, it's that time again. This is my second to last post on the subject of Japan and I hope I can do justice to the topic. The topic being culture. I' m reminded of a phrase used by an internet critic on that subject, describing Japan as a complex tapestry of social etiquette and feudal empires. And recently, at my birthday, I had a chance to reflect back on the different aspects of Japan's culture for my family and friends.
First, it's important to understand a little about Shinto for some of the social rules to make sense. It is more of a cultural phenomenon than an established religion, as it permeates every part of Japanese culture. Within it are certain guidelines. For example, blood is an impure substance and the color red is likewise impure. However, white, salt, sake, and rice are all considered pure. This is probably why most rice in Japan is eaten white. It is meant to be a customary show of purity. While this might seem like a silly idea, much of Japanese culture is determined by such Shinto ideals. Cars, houses, and people have times in their lives where they seek purification. On auspicious days, people are more prone to dress in white, as it suggests purity and a freedom from evil deeds. And other such practices permeate the landscape. I do not believe that some Japanese are even aware of the origins of these practices. They just do them out of habit. Similar to visiting a temple but not knowing the deity to whom they pray.
Japan is also very highly focused on dignity and the preservation of ones honor. To that end, people who are hurt or who might seem lost or in need of help are rarely offered help. This should not be misinterpreted as the Japanese being cruel. Far from it. Seldom ever will you meet a more helpful or honest person on the street than a Japanese person. However, it is social etiquette to not ask people if they need help, as that would embarrass them and ultimately bring shame to them, which is a big deal in Japan. People who ask for help are given it freely and enthusiastically, but until one asks, it is unlikely they will receive it on their own. In supermarkets or department stores, for example, no one asks if you need help like they do in America. They leave you be and if you need guidance, you can ask and people will assist.
Along the same lines of dignity, manners are crucially important to Japanese culture. Every time one enters a store people welcome you and whenever you leave, they wish you good luck on your way. People are expected to say when they are leaving and returning and all those in earshot wish them good luck or a welcome return. The equivalent of a short grace or a thanks given for a meal is present at the start and end of every Japanese meal. It can be a little daunting for an outsider. However, to my own frustration at times, Gaijin are not really required to follow these laws of social etiquette. They are exempt purely because of how they look and act, so the Japanese have already judged them based on that. While this can be a godsend for someone seeking romance, since between the Japanese, public displays of affection, even one as simple as holding hands, is discouraged, it can be annoying when you want to immerse yourself in the culture.
There are also, of course, the rules that many would define as strange. In Japan, slurping noodles is polite, as it compliments the cook. Eating rice with sauces is discouraged, as it fouls the pure white rice. And of course, the importance of public bathing. While I never went to an onsen or open bath, to my shame, I know from my readings that these are some of the few places where people can let down their hair and get clean, both physically and spiritually. In a world of structure, manners, and rigidity, places to just relax are important. Some companies and organizations encourage employees to bath together so they can get to know the real them. While not all of these make sense to a western audience, especially given our less rigid and less polite etiquette in the states, they make perfect sense to the Japanese. That's kind of what matters in subjects like this.
I personally believe that these manners, along with the willingness of the Japanese to adapt to new situations, is what makes them so open to foreigners. Granted, there are a few people stuck in the past who don't like foreigners in Japan but the polite hospitality of Japan extends to more than just its own people. However, these manners can also seem restrictive to me. Many of the rules emphasize a submission to a greater authority, in school, at home, or at work. Failure to comply with or meet all the demands of the greater authority can lead to more than just personal chastisement, but to ostracizing by those around you. It can be a scary sight to behold. While I haven't personally seen someone stoned or run out of a building for such reasons, I have seen people grow colder to those who have challenged their leaders. This can be especially scary for teenagers entering a rebellious phase. Even then, however, the manners and etiquette provide at least the appearance of civility...which is something, I suppose.
Really, it's impossible to break down all the nuances of Japanese culture into a single blog post. Hell, even a series of books wouldn't be enough. I suppose the take away message is that the Japanese are very polite and hold dear to their manners and standards of social etiquette. Sometimes they follow traditions, especially around the holidays, that are ironclad, even if they don't understand what they mean. And often enough, people's personal pride and dignity are put over their well being, to such an extent that even victims of an accident or a death in the family will not receive sympathy unless they openly seek it. It's not perfect, by any means, but the nature of Japan's culture and the importance of social etiquette make it a place that will be jarring to foreigners, if only because of how welcoming and kind people appear to be. And they are genuinely kind and welcoming. But sometimes, one wonders what lies behind the masks of social etiquette. Anyway, I don't have nearly enough experience to comment on such things. I'm just making some broad observations.
Up next will be my final reflection on Japan before I put this blog to rest...at least until my next trip abroad. I intend to highlight my fondest memories and the best trips. So look forward to it.
First, it's important to understand a little about Shinto for some of the social rules to make sense. It is more of a cultural phenomenon than an established religion, as it permeates every part of Japanese culture. Within it are certain guidelines. For example, blood is an impure substance and the color red is likewise impure. However, white, salt, sake, and rice are all considered pure. This is probably why most rice in Japan is eaten white. It is meant to be a customary show of purity. While this might seem like a silly idea, much of Japanese culture is determined by such Shinto ideals. Cars, houses, and people have times in their lives where they seek purification. On auspicious days, people are more prone to dress in white, as it suggests purity and a freedom from evil deeds. And other such practices permeate the landscape. I do not believe that some Japanese are even aware of the origins of these practices. They just do them out of habit. Similar to visiting a temple but not knowing the deity to whom they pray.
Japan is also very highly focused on dignity and the preservation of ones honor. To that end, people who are hurt or who might seem lost or in need of help are rarely offered help. This should not be misinterpreted as the Japanese being cruel. Far from it. Seldom ever will you meet a more helpful or honest person on the street than a Japanese person. However, it is social etiquette to not ask people if they need help, as that would embarrass them and ultimately bring shame to them, which is a big deal in Japan. People who ask for help are given it freely and enthusiastically, but until one asks, it is unlikely they will receive it on their own. In supermarkets or department stores, for example, no one asks if you need help like they do in America. They leave you be and if you need guidance, you can ask and people will assist.
Along the same lines of dignity, manners are crucially important to Japanese culture. Every time one enters a store people welcome you and whenever you leave, they wish you good luck on your way. People are expected to say when they are leaving and returning and all those in earshot wish them good luck or a welcome return. The equivalent of a short grace or a thanks given for a meal is present at the start and end of every Japanese meal. It can be a little daunting for an outsider. However, to my own frustration at times, Gaijin are not really required to follow these laws of social etiquette. They are exempt purely because of how they look and act, so the Japanese have already judged them based on that. While this can be a godsend for someone seeking romance, since between the Japanese, public displays of affection, even one as simple as holding hands, is discouraged, it can be annoying when you want to immerse yourself in the culture.
There are also, of course, the rules that many would define as strange. In Japan, slurping noodles is polite, as it compliments the cook. Eating rice with sauces is discouraged, as it fouls the pure white rice. And of course, the importance of public bathing. While I never went to an onsen or open bath, to my shame, I know from my readings that these are some of the few places where people can let down their hair and get clean, both physically and spiritually. In a world of structure, manners, and rigidity, places to just relax are important. Some companies and organizations encourage employees to bath together so they can get to know the real them. While not all of these make sense to a western audience, especially given our less rigid and less polite etiquette in the states, they make perfect sense to the Japanese. That's kind of what matters in subjects like this.
I personally believe that these manners, along with the willingness of the Japanese to adapt to new situations, is what makes them so open to foreigners. Granted, there are a few people stuck in the past who don't like foreigners in Japan but the polite hospitality of Japan extends to more than just its own people. However, these manners can also seem restrictive to me. Many of the rules emphasize a submission to a greater authority, in school, at home, or at work. Failure to comply with or meet all the demands of the greater authority can lead to more than just personal chastisement, but to ostracizing by those around you. It can be a scary sight to behold. While I haven't personally seen someone stoned or run out of a building for such reasons, I have seen people grow colder to those who have challenged their leaders. This can be especially scary for teenagers entering a rebellious phase. Even then, however, the manners and etiquette provide at least the appearance of civility...which is something, I suppose.
Really, it's impossible to break down all the nuances of Japanese culture into a single blog post. Hell, even a series of books wouldn't be enough. I suppose the take away message is that the Japanese are very polite and hold dear to their manners and standards of social etiquette. Sometimes they follow traditions, especially around the holidays, that are ironclad, even if they don't understand what they mean. And often enough, people's personal pride and dignity are put over their well being, to such an extent that even victims of an accident or a death in the family will not receive sympathy unless they openly seek it. It's not perfect, by any means, but the nature of Japan's culture and the importance of social etiquette make it a place that will be jarring to foreigners, if only because of how welcoming and kind people appear to be. And they are genuinely kind and welcoming. But sometimes, one wonders what lies behind the masks of social etiquette. Anyway, I don't have nearly enough experience to comment on such things. I'm just making some broad observations.
Up next will be my final reflection on Japan before I put this blog to rest...at least until my next trip abroad. I intend to highlight my fondest memories and the best trips. So look forward to it.
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Reflections: What Wondrous Sights to See
Well, it's that time again. I am tired and don't want to do anything else...so, I've decided to reflect on Japan and how much I miss it. Specifically, on all the sights I've seen and how they compare to similar tourist sights in America.
Though I traveled a great deal in Japan and visited many great tourist attractions, it was often difficult for me to tell where the tourist site began and the town ended. They were often woven so intricately together that it was difficult to tell them apart, save for the sites being a bit more ostentatious. Okay, maybe that doesn't make perfect sense, but it's the atmosphere. The sites don't seem separate or different from the towns they are in. They've grown together organically. To me, this was a stark contrast to all the memorial parks or big buildings in the States that I had seen, things like the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty seem cut off, separate from an area, while places such as Fushimi Inari or the Hiroshima Peace Museum are rooted in the towns around them.
There is also an air of tradition around the specific sites in Japan. Temples have a bit of decorum to be looked after, such as services or offerings to the guardian deities, traditional food from the area is served around such sites, and as a whole, it feels...I don't know, a bit more authentically Japanese than anything else I've seen. In America, the tradition doesn't seem to be there.
Above all else, the sites I saw moved me because of the atmosphere and surroundings. Even though Japan is a densely packed Island nation, you wouldn't know to look at it from any of the major sights. There is a great respect for nature, especially mountains and trees. They have signs around them asking not to litter, typically by saying please don't anger the mountain or something, are cared for by those around them, and make the industrialized country seem more rustic than many small towns in the states. This atmosphere is one of the charming aspects of Japan and the sights to be seen.
In total, went to Kyoto 5 times, saw 4 different theater performances, visited around 7 temples, saw the Hiroshima Peace Museum, and traveled to several small towns, both to see these sights and to just explore. In total, that's more than I've seen in nearly a decade in the states. The only experience close to this was when I traveled cross country with my family, and even then, the sights we saw didn't compare to the majesty and the atmosphere of Japan. I miss it dearly. I also have to mention that this kind of free travel wouldn't have been possible without their excellent public transportation system.
I guess looking back, I don't have much to say about my travels and the sights I've seen that hasn't already been said before. I suppose the take away from this is that the atmosphere, the tradition, and how organic the sights felt were what enchanted me. They were so different from the States, which often is a mash up of cultures, as we are a melting pot, but in Japan...I suppose everything feels Japanese.
I'd recommend seeing as many sights as possible for those who are considering a trip to Japan. While I didn't include my travels to the big city, Osaka, in these journals, but it too was an amazing experience, as the city felt much different, much safer, much more labyrinthine than the states. The atmosphere was different, as was the layout.
I guess this reflection is going to be a bit short. My apologies for that, but I've already covered my travels in painstaking detail in past posts. Look to those if you missed anything. Up next, a reflection on the culture, on Japan, and on my precious memories of the trip.
Though I traveled a great deal in Japan and visited many great tourist attractions, it was often difficult for me to tell where the tourist site began and the town ended. They were often woven so intricately together that it was difficult to tell them apart, save for the sites being a bit more ostentatious. Okay, maybe that doesn't make perfect sense, but it's the atmosphere. The sites don't seem separate or different from the towns they are in. They've grown together organically. To me, this was a stark contrast to all the memorial parks or big buildings in the States that I had seen, things like the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty seem cut off, separate from an area, while places such as Fushimi Inari or the Hiroshima Peace Museum are rooted in the towns around them.
There is also an air of tradition around the specific sites in Japan. Temples have a bit of decorum to be looked after, such as services or offerings to the guardian deities, traditional food from the area is served around such sites, and as a whole, it feels...I don't know, a bit more authentically Japanese than anything else I've seen. In America, the tradition doesn't seem to be there.
Above all else, the sites I saw moved me because of the atmosphere and surroundings. Even though Japan is a densely packed Island nation, you wouldn't know to look at it from any of the major sights. There is a great respect for nature, especially mountains and trees. They have signs around them asking not to litter, typically by saying please don't anger the mountain or something, are cared for by those around them, and make the industrialized country seem more rustic than many small towns in the states. This atmosphere is one of the charming aspects of Japan and the sights to be seen.
In total, went to Kyoto 5 times, saw 4 different theater performances, visited around 7 temples, saw the Hiroshima Peace Museum, and traveled to several small towns, both to see these sights and to just explore. In total, that's more than I've seen in nearly a decade in the states. The only experience close to this was when I traveled cross country with my family, and even then, the sights we saw didn't compare to the majesty and the atmosphere of Japan. I miss it dearly. I also have to mention that this kind of free travel wouldn't have been possible without their excellent public transportation system.
I guess looking back, I don't have much to say about my travels and the sights I've seen that hasn't already been said before. I suppose the take away from this is that the atmosphere, the tradition, and how organic the sights felt were what enchanted me. They were so different from the States, which often is a mash up of cultures, as we are a melting pot, but in Japan...I suppose everything feels Japanese.
I'd recommend seeing as many sights as possible for those who are considering a trip to Japan. While I didn't include my travels to the big city, Osaka, in these journals, but it too was an amazing experience, as the city felt much different, much safer, much more labyrinthine than the states. The atmosphere was different, as was the layout.
I guess this reflection is going to be a bit short. My apologies for that, but I've already covered my travels in painstaking detail in past posts. Look to those if you missed anything. Up next, a reflection on the culture, on Japan, and on my precious memories of the trip.
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