Second trip to Japan, September 2015-October 2015 - First Week

Second trip to Japan, September 2015-October 2015

First week

 Due to time constraints and to the length of my journal entries, I broke my Japan diary into two weeks, so there's a long one here with some deep thoughts and my traveling, with a shorter one to follow next week.  Enjoy.

September 12

Ugh...homecoming to Japan is bittersweet at best.  I've had a crap day.  The early rise with barely any sleep in China, the CROWDED subways at the ass crack of dawn, going to the wrong terminal and struggling with the paperwork, the TSA took my beard trimming shears, so I need to replace those, and then...the waiting...and the bags...and the pulling...My friend was waiting to pick me up and we decided to take the subways to my hotel to save money, which meant more pulling but it was nice to catch up with her.  It'd been too long since last we were face to face in person.  Speaking with my friend is probably the best part of my day, all things considered, because holy balls it turned into a frustrating day.  My hotel is not bad, but it IS a youth hostel...meaning rooms the size of broom closets and an internet that is so crappy it rivals the old dial up modems I had twenty years ago.  Not even joking here, the internet in CHINA was better than what I have in this hotel.  I will not be online for the next 14 days, more than likely.  Charming.  I did get to have some Osaka food with my friend and the hotel's toilets and showers are pretty decent and there's even laundry so I can do my clothes...which I will need to cause I REEKED after I arrived, but...ugh, I know I'll be traveling most of this trip so internet isn't THAT big a deal, but being cut off from the world makes me antsy and frustrates me.  When I arrive home in the US, I'll probably have an internet binge with the videos I missed.  Here's hoping tomorrow is more encouraging.

September 13

Well...not sure if encouraging is the word to use here.  Not bad, mind you, today had some good points, but...ehhhh?  Let me run down some of the goods and some of the bads.  Good: I got to spend the day with my Japanese friend who was lovely and took me to some great restaurants, including udon, omurice, and I got a cola ice cream float, and we went to a mexican festival full of delicious cinnamon sugar and CHEESE.  Bad: We ALSO spent the whole day looking for a phone, because god forbid a foreigner without a smart phone leave home...you cannot buy a pre paid phone in Japan unless you have a residency card or unless you want to use apps...but not actually call people.  The sheer level of "WHAT?!" on display here frustrated both of us because we were both familiar with using prepaid phones in university.  So, lesson learned...get a smart phone.  Also, we tried to book a bus so I could get to Hiroshima to meet a friend and potential business contact and...holy cow, that was ridiculously complicated.  Couldn't book it online, couldn't book it by phone, couldn't book the cities I wanted...eventually I suggested we say to hell with it and go to the bus station where we COULD book the bus tickets I needed.  So, I guess that's also a good.  I got the tickets I needed.

On a side note, my friend loves Spanish and Mexican culture, so that's why we were at a festival.  We stayed longer than I wanted, but she was having fun and got to see some of her friends, so I'm glad for that.  I hope I didn't make her feel bad because when it started to rain, I took cover away from the stage, where there was dancing, while she stayed with friends and kept watching.  Ugh...this kind of lets me know about why my dad gets antsy sometimes with long events.  If it's not your thing, but you're there for someone else, then...what can you do but wait?  I mean, I couldn't leave...that would be a terrible and rude thing to do. 

Anyway, it gave me some time to think on a lot of things as the rain cleared up, my old seat was taken by someone else, and the dancing continued for a good hour or two.  It's really easy to sink into self pity in that situation where you're there for someone else who's having fun with other people...thankfully, I managed to side step that because I'm used to self pity...I am tired of pity parties, so I try to avoid them.  But it was difficult.  We want to feel justified, like WE'RE not the selfish ones, but we are.  Everyone is selfish on some level, even us...we just love playing the victim.  Anyway, I managed to avoid that, but that's what it gave me time to think about.  Not sure if I'm getting better at this social interaction thing, but I like to see this as growth from when I was younger.  Still, hope my taking cover and stepping back didn't both her.  My friend really is a gem.

September 14

Today...today...oh, dear...well, first, trying to navigate the trip to Hiroshima is pretty frustrating.  Got my bus tickets booked, but I also need to take a train when I get there to meet my contact and since I have no phone...yeah, tiresome.  I'll have him recognize me by my coat.  It should be pretty easy, considering the flights I HAVE taken and WILL take, but still...

Today I went to my old town that I lived in during University.  So much remains the same and yet so much has changed.  No Mr. Donut when I got off the train, no tiramisu mochi, no anime themed super store...it makes me wistful.  And a bit annoyed because I'll have trouble getting gifts for two friends of mine who want some SNK stuff...I used to know where all the anime stores were, but everything's changed and...sigh.  Some things remain the same.  My old house is where it used to be, same with my university.  It's a bit bigger in places, but still the tranquil oasis I used to love.  Feels strange now though, with all my friends graduated and a fresh crop in their walls.  Kansai Gaidai is an interesting place at all times, but I feel...a bit nostalgic and wistful for the old days.  That can kind of sum up my whole visit, really.  I did have some good times though, don't make any mistakes...The walk to my home was nice and peaceful and I revisited some old places which were still there, including the legendary Takoyaki maker.  I say legendary because I tell everyone about him.  His shop is small and a bit dirty, but he is skilled, chatty, and his food is delicious.  Four years later, the tiny shop is still open and he still remembers me.  It was good to see him again and we chatted, as best we could, in Japanese.  I also revisited the sushi place I used to love.  Still awesome.  But, my crepe cafe is gone.  Sad face.  I also found the old department store I used to visit and got some pretty sweet deals on some games.  One of them I got for basically $1.  It's been a good day for minor shopping.  Once I give my gifts to my friends, I'll have a bit more space for games and whatnot, so I bought a little, but I was temped by SEVERAL different games there.  God I want a Wii U and even a PS4 is starting to look tantalizing with Dark Souls 3, Bloodborne, and Dragon Quest heroes.

Before I finish for the night, let me talk a bit about my feelings and my current hotel.  First, feelings.  The phrase, "Those days are gone and they ain't ever comin back" was stuck in my head all day.  It's weird, trying to recapture old memories.  Trying to remember and relive glory days, because they're gone...you need to move towards the future.  But we all want the past, don't we.  We all miss those better times even if they were only better because they're over and we're not living them now.  It's something a lot of people need to come to terms with, myself included.  For me, I guess this was like a hello and a goodbye.  Goodbye to the town I used to know and hello to a future, because things change...they do.  That doesn't have to be bad.  I just don't have enough time right now to adjust...only got 12 days left.

Now, my hotel is...problematic.  I talked already about the wifi, which is passable at best and downright pathetic at worst.  But, we should discuss some other things first.  To start with, it IS a hostel, so cheaper amenities are kind of expected for a cheaper price.  The showers are fine, but they are public, so anyone can use them.  Ditto the toilets.  They've got heated seats and are pretty rad...though I don't want to try the squat toilets on the second floor.  There's a strange smell in my room, but the A/C works, which is more than I can say for certain, fancier hotels.  The size is probably what gets me...the size and the pillow, actually.  I need a bit of room to pace, move, stretch when I'm living somewhere.  Now, I'm mostly here to sleep and do my journal entries, so it's not as big a deal, but if I ever lived in Japan I'd need a private bathroom but also space to get up and walk...to pace, think, and move.  And with the small space available, I can't do that.  Now, my pillow...is tiny and basically a sheet over a bag of erasers.  The pillow is meant to be filled with the kind of beans you might hear is good for your spine, but instead it has plastic tubes in a bag...it's weird and I don't like it, but I do need the support so...I'm stuck.

Ironically, sleeping in the hotel is easy and I've had some VERY good nights of sleep.  Now, this is owed mostly to the terrible nature of my bed in China and the great nature of Japanese beds.  My bed in China was not just firm, but HARD.  Rock hard.  And a bit off balance in the center so there was a lump in the middle which didn't let me rest flat on my back.  Here though, we have a tatami mat floor, which is nice and firm without being hard, and a futon.  God, I love futons.  I used to sleep on a futon couch after all.  These two in combination usually give me the best sleep I could hope for, so...at least there's that.

On the whole though, I do need more space.  I barely have enough room for my suitcases closed and it takes a juggling routine to open them and get at what I need.  It's...a problem.

September 15

My return trip to Fushimi-Inari.  My plan was to not get sweaty.  I failed.  Climbed a mountain for about 3-4 hours.  It was fun, actually.  Everything about Japan reminds me about why I actually enjoy life.  Now, it's not fair to compare everything to China, but...yeah, the AIR here is amazing.  China's air felt so stifling and the smell...but the air in Japan feels so fresh and rich and since Inari is a tourist place, but still a small town, the balance of nature and humanity is just perfect.  It was, again, bittersweet though.  I came here originally with a girl I loved and we spent a lot of time having fun climbing the mountain and visiting the fox statues.  However, that time has passed and it ain't ever comin back.  Still, I felt...at peace around the mountain's heights and around all the tori gates which were almost rooms unto themselves.  A part of me wanted dearly to reconnect with my old flame and...finally get the damn closure I needed three years ago.  We'll see if the feeling lingers.  I know love is dead, but still...I could take a step forward and move past it.  I mean, I have to an extent, but the bittersweet nature of this trip kinda also shows I have a ways to go.  Anyway, I had a good day.  Cept for my legs.  Near the end of my climb, my legs were really shot.  I can tell because one or both of them will start trembling if I put weight on them.  I can still walk, but standing still is a challenge.  It went away after a bit, but I REALLY pushed myself hard with the climb today.  Felt good, actually, until the trembling started.  I love Fushimi-Inari and if I had a year instead of only 10 days left, I'd go back again.  Absolutely beautiful place.

Since I talked about the air, there are two other comparisons I want to make today.  First is trains.  While Japan and China have a similar subway system in that it's one car per track, I really admire Japan's innovations with the trains.  China is MUCH simpler and easier to understand, I will say that up front, but the crowds and the congestion can make it a tiresome chore to get from point A to point B.  How did Japan solve this?  Different varieties of train.  Now, this was brilliant.  Each track has a spot for two trains traveling in the same direction.  When I headed to Fushimi, there were six different kinds of trains running.  Some would stop at every station.  Some only the most popular...and all things in-between.  This was a brilliant idea and really saved time, showed the speed of Japan's trains, and was just a great experience.  China still has Japan beat in terms of price, but Japan has a lot more flexibility.  They could learn from each other, in my opinion.  Japan brings the price down and China offers more options to train goers.

Last thing to talk about today is the same food in different countries.  So, today I got dinner at Mcdonalds.  It's different for all 3 countries.  China tends to have a heavier focus on Chicken and potentially pork.  The standard burger is there, but it's not as popular as the chicken or the fish or the pork burgers they offer.  America is ALL about the beef and the different varieties you can have.  They even have a secret menu for those in the know, hehe.  Japan is a bit different.  For one, their french fries are some of the best the world has ever known.  For another, they're willing to provide their own culture specific burgers.  For example, in September, they sell the moon burger, a standard cheese burger with a soft boiled egg on top and the special moon sauce.  This thing...is absolutely delicious.  But it's only around for one month before it gets swapped out.  I really wish they'd import it to America because it is a gold mine here in Japan, due to the limited window...kinda like the Mcrib, I guess...anyway, I wish we could have more international burgers back home.  And I found a Mister Donut today, which was invigorating.  In retrospect, not too different from other donut chains, but they feel lighter and less heavy or sickening in your stomach than Krispy Kreme or Dunkin...just my own observations.

Tomorrow, I round out my old stomping grounds by heading to Kyoto...and maybe next week I'll visit Nara, who knows...anyway, time is running down, so I gotta get going.  Hoping for fun tomorrow.

September 16

Another day of mixed feelings and disparity.  A rainy day in Kyoto sounds romantic, doesn't it?  Well, only when it's raining hard...sadly, I bought an umbrella to be safe and the rain petered out, but it worked out for the best.  I used the umbrella as a cane because GOOD LORD my legs crapped out on me halfway through the day.  I used to exercise hard, but trying to jump back into an active lifestyle after a year of no running has hurt me.  My legs became achey by the time I reached Kyoto's Yasaka Shrine today on my reunion tour and stayed that way until I got home...so I needed the umbrella to support myself.  Anyway, speaking of Kyoto, I got lost early today.  Spent about 1-2 hours not sure where to go.  I eventually found my way onto the right path, but getting lost was kind of a blessing because I passed through a lot of interesting places.  Temples, arcade parlors, theaters, and stores.  I happened through two Book On stores and searched for the crown jewel of my Vanillaware Collection back home.  Vanillaware is my FAVORITE game company and many of their games never made it stateside.  I found one such game in Hirakata, Grand Knights History...another title proved more elusive though.  I found it today.  Princess Crown, the spiritual prequel to my favorite game of all time, Odin Sphere.  I was giddy all day about that.

That being said, I felt a bit somber during my travels.  Nothing really bad beyond the aches and pains happened, I had a good lunch of Indian food, a tea parfait as dessert, and tried a different kind of Moon Burger for dinner, but...I just felt worn out and sad today.  Part of it is this journey feels a bit empty because last time I was in Hirakata, or Inari, or Kyoto, I had a friend...someone I loved...with me.  In a way, this is helping me to put those ghosts to bed, Fushimi-Inari in particular being a place of reflection, but these travels would be...more fun with friends.  I'm looking at you Sissy.  If you ever read this XD

Anyway, I visited the Yasaka Shrine, surrounding parks, and a burial site for an abbot of the Hononji temple.  Beautiful sights, but...I just felt a bit down.  When it's grey, but there's little to no rain, I feel pretty low.  I prefer it when the rain pours down because it feels cleansing.  Still, at least it wasn't too hot out today and I got to find a treasure I'd been searching for.  Didn't get to go to Kyomizudera like I wanted, I just ran out of time and energy...but I might go back later.  We'll see.

Now, I'm very tired though, so I want to rest.  Tomorrow is my trip to Hiroshima, so...hopefully that will go well.

September 17

Consider this a half day entry, because I usually record these in the evening, but tonight I will be on a bus to Hiroshima so...taking my opportunities as they come.

Sigh...I love Japan, but so far my time here has been full of ups and downs.  Today in particular.  I got lost.  Again.  Surprise.  I was heading to a spa to try and figure out if I had time to relax and unwind there.  The answer, it turns out, is no.  I could have, but was turned off by the staggering price of massages, though I might go back before I leave to simply try out the onsens, since I don't need a swimsuit for it.  Either way, I got lost, but found my way to lunch and Tsutenkaku(I think that's the correct pronunciation) a big tower in my neck of the woods.  Was a pretty cool place and I got to see some history, some manga, they LOVE ultimate muscle here, and get a great view.  I was in the Billiken area where a strange deity is held as lucky, so that was also prominent here as well.

That was fun...while I was up in the tower, I could see a zoo, so I figured, why not?  The price was right at only 500 yen, but it felt a bit rundown, as renovations were happening all over the place and it was still raining, so everything was wet.  The animals were interesting, but some of them seemed either sleepy or just sad and I felt a bit bad for them.  Once again, while walking, my legs started to give out.  Still not recovered from climbing Fushimi...and why would I be, I've not taken a day off to rest since then, I've kept on going.  Anyway, I forced myself to a nearby art museum, which was a mistake because of the stairs, and saw some Japanese painters who had created western style paintings, from the abstract and the surreal to the fresco and contemporary styles.  It was interesting...but not worth the price, since they only had those paintings and the price of admission was 1300 yen.  A bit of a rip off.

I'm recovering in my room now, packing things for my trip to Hiroshima and getting ready to leave.  I have to leave my bags here during my trip, so...fingers crossed everything is okay when I get back.  I am taking all my money with me though.  My father didn't raise a fool.

September 18

Okay, so this is a continuation from last night into the 18th.  First, let me talk a bit about the bus ride.  Hellacious is a word that springs to mind.  That bus was cramped and bumpy and the ride was frustrating as all hell.  There was no A/C, so I was stuck, hot and sweaty, on a six hour bus ride in mostly darkness.  Damndest thing happened several times though.  The bus would just stop at a rest stop and wait, sometimes for up to an hour, just so they'd be on schedule for their arrival.  Not early.  On schedule.  It was...annoying.  Eventually, after about 5 hours of no sleep, I said screw it, busted out my 3ds and started gaming.  Made the last leg of the trip more bearable, but still, a huge pain.

The train ride to Onomichi, where I was meeting my contact, was...better?  I couldn't sleep because it was an old fashioned train and I had to keep track of the stations myself.  I had to remember where to get off.  That was...tiresome.  But the countryside out here was absolutely beautiful.  Such a great scenery in these rural towns outside Hiroshima city.  We stopped at Onomichi, near the sea, and it felt truly peaceful, almost like home.

I met my contact and we headed off to his home to discuss his business and my future.  We talked at length about his project which is called the Peace Village in Hiroshima.  The idea here is to create a sustainable community that can survive without some of the necessities we've become used to in modern society.  Growing your own food, creating your own power, bathrooms, wi-fi, the works.  This doesn't mean being a ludite though, and forsaking technology.  He's got some good ideas about sustainability.  For example a micro hydro generator in a river that can generate power if there's enough force moving the water.  Or permaculture, the idea that you create a mini-ecosystem where food that you want, such as kinds of rice, fruits, or what have you, will grow without you needing to put forth the effort for farming.  It's all interesting stuff and works in conjunction with Jimmy Carter's village, which is a relationship between Atlanta and this small town where my host lives.  It's a fascinating idea, but the hard part is getting young people involved.  Truth be told, I might be turned off by a few ideas, such as the lack of working plumbing, we get water out of a well and crap into a hole at this house, but the natural beauty here is amazing and the idea of being able to live in a sustainable community isn't a bad one.  The main problem I'd have with committing to it is the simple fact that I still want to see more of the world and find a girlfriend and get married, and the like.  This kind of place seems like a great place to retire, but I think my host wants to get young people here to help it grow so that he and his friends working on this can have a community of people living in perfect peace and harmony.

His idea is also to have people coming and going from Japan to the US and the US to Japan, since he's hoping to set up a similar place in Atlanta.  I hope it works out for him and if you're reading this, check out the Hiroshima Peace Village on Facebook or online, it's a pretty cool idea.

Anyway, I crashed mega hard after lunch because I didn't sleep at all during the night bus, so I crashed, then we went to an Onsen.  It's a peaceful place and a great place for relaxing.  After days of my legs hurting, I feel much better after a good soak.  It is a bit weird getting used to the idea of public nudity if you haven't before.  I shared a locker room during weight training in high school, so I'm cool, but I get some people might be weirded out.  It's a great place, but I did start to get a bit light headed near the end.  Too much heat and the blood all rushing to my head.  Still, I can cross that off my bucket list.  Maybe I'll try spa world near my Osaka hotel again since I know how all this works now.  After that we cooked dinner, talked a bit, and enjoyed the company.

I admit being as cut off as I am right now is a bit off putting since there aren't any close buses or trains, but hey, we have AMAZING internet out here.  Anyone who calls BS on fiber optic cables and google fiber, the Japanese government did this for smaller towns years ago and it is FANTASTIC.  So fast and reliable.  So, not totally cut off.  I'm here for one more night and then I head back.  Hoping to get some good pictures and learn more about the peace village project.  I'm living right now in a Japanese style house, complete with the sliding doors and the tatami floors.  It's...very charming.  Dunno if I could live as a community with others, but if I wanted to live a little ways out of a town, this is probably the kind of house I'd wanna live in, with a few cosmetic changes to match my taste, of course.  Really is a great place and a piece of history.

September 19

Okay...today has been a bit of a challenge for me for various reasons.  Some logistical, some mental.  Anyway, I woke up and helped my host with cleaning out his home in preparation for the peace village.  It's an ongoing process, but we suddenly hit on the idea to send me to Hiroshima on a bus.  This would give me an opportunity to head to the YMCA, which might be able to give me another opportunity to teach English here and MAYBE go to Miyajima if I have time.  While the idea was sound, we ran into some problems.

Probably my biggest worry has been money.  I still have plenty, but it's been frustrating since the place I'm staying at in Hiroshima, the World Friendship Center, and the bus I took to get to Hiroshima together cost over $60, which is...frustrating.  The bus ride was okay, for a bit, because I got to see some truly STUNNING rural scenery, which I'll touch more on later.  But we hit a traffic jam of epic proportions and...the fun stopped.  Anyway, I arrived in Hiroshima city and promptly got lost.

Well...sort of.  I had a map and managed to find my way, thank god for my previous trip there it REALLY helped.  I navigated around the Hiroshima dome and the peace museum to find the right road and managed to find the Center.  Problem was in order to get there before everyone turned in for the night, I had to skip dinner, though I had a bit of tea and noodles on me, so...could be worse.  The room here is pretty nice and the internet is good, however I had to wait after my long walk for a room...it was frustrating.  The entire trip here has been largely about time tables and a bit of a logistical nightmare trying to get to places on schedule.  I'll look forward to heading back to Osaka because I can make my own schedule a bit more often.  Either way, tomorrow I try to make some contacts to help me get back to Japan.  Not sure if it will bear fruit, but...if you try, you have a chance of failure.  If you don't try, failure is 100%.

Anyway, let's talk about rural scenery.  My mental problems kinda stemmed from me thinking about where I'd like to live/retire/etc.  See, this is an idealized state of mind.  As someone I love dearly once put, we're in love with the IDEA of living a simple life or a community life or a rural life.  It's actually pretty inconvenient in a lot of ways.  Repairs, getting groceries, the insects, insulation, or utilities situations...we want to have that rural feeling but still have all the conveniences of a small to large city with all that we could need and friends close by.  I've been trying to reconcile that because the peace village is a beautiful place to be, but having to live there...I feel conflicted.  Same thing with anything else.  Example.  I love the sea.  I LOVE the ocean.  I love going out on boats or simply being by the dock.  But I don't live near the sea.  I don't have to deal with the hurricanes, or the water damage which could happen to houses, or insuring a boat or knowing when to stay or flee...and those are all real factors you need to take into account when living near the water.  It's an odd truth that we want to live comfortably, often around people we love, but we also haven idealized idea of our perfect home or environment and...they don't always really mix.  I give mad props to my host in Hiroshima because he is actually trying to live the dream of convenience and ideals together, but...it's taking time and even he admits that the transitions are the hardest parts.  I do want to find a home near the ocean someday...I don't want to be a fisherman or live on the water, but with friends in a small or medium town on the coast with protection against hurricanes?  Sounds like a fairy tale, doesn't it.  Still, who knows...maybe the world will provide.  I've been trying to reconcile the ideas here, the ideas of beauty vs practicality...and I imagine I will continue to do so as I gain experience and explore.

Before I worry about where to settle though, I'd like someone to settle with.  Close friend, sister, lover...someone.  Because while I love my private time, no one is an island...and I have no desire to live as...or on...an island(Please note Japan does not count because if we wanna count Japan, we may as well count every continent as a massive island, so...yeah...)

September 20

Well...today was...today was a day.  I woke up bright and bloody early, earlier than I have in a long time, to go to the YMCA and to Miyajima.  YMCA had a skeleton crew and despite wearing my good shirt, which I got soaked in sweat, I got nowhere.  Which...eh, not too surprising, it was a Sunday, after all.  Anyway, I took the street car down to the port and headed over to Miyajima.  I make it sound short, but I spent, there and back, over 3 hours on that street car carrying my laptop and my clothes.  Like I said, it's been a day.  Once I hit the ferry, it was great.  I love ferrys and I love going out to sea, if only for a bit.  We went to the island, which is BEAUTIFUL, but...too many people.  Miyajima has too many people and too many smart ass deer.  There was a waiting list at every restaurant there, so I settled for a street vendor selling maple leaf pastries made of Eel.  Yes, really.  It was damned good.  Unfortunately, the aforementioned deer tried to drink my soda, eat my eel(not a euphemism) and generally made me look foolish.  I'd had a long day, so I just bore with it till the soda was gone and the eel eaten.

The shrine at Miyajima was absolutely gorgeous and I love how it is partly submerged in the ocean.  The pagodas there were great too and I got some good souveniers for my friends and family.  Sadly, I was on a time schedule, so I only spent two hours on the island before I had to go back to Hiroshima station.  I want to say again how frustrating time schedules are and how I've been on them since day one with the Hiroshima trip, which makes it...just that little bit more stressful.  Anyway, I managed to, after a lot of searching, find the right terminal for my bus, get on, and...six hours later, I arrived in Osaka.  It was easier this time around, but still frustrating...I'd like to not take the night bus in the future, if possible.

I took a subway home and then, here I am, resting, washing clothes, and preparing for bed at my hotel.  In total, I spent about 11 hours riding public transportation today.  6 for the bus.  3 for the street car.  1 each for the ferry and subway home.  Give or take.  But...yeah, it's been a day.  That doesn't even count when I walked to the YMCA.

Gonna take it a bit easier tomorrow.  I know some restaurants near my hotel, so I'll head out there and probably find my way to the spa again.  I'm gonna have a spa and onsen and restaurant day.  It'll cost some, but...I need a shorter day to enjoy life.  I enjoyed my time at the onsen with my host, so this will be a good solo experience for me, I think, now that I know what to do.